QUATRE GRANDE TABLE SUR SAN FRANCISCO

Nancy Oakes de BOULEVARD

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Chef Nancy Oakes a grandi dans le nord de la Californie et a commencé à San Francisco. Sa première expérience dans la cuisine était sur le front de mer de San Francisco au Barnacle,. Après The Barnacle, elle a commandé la cuisine à Pat O’Shea pour la prochaine décennie. Le chef Oakes a ensuite ouvert l’Avenue en 1988. L’Avenue va être le début de sa reconnaissance bien méritée et un succès pour les années à venir.

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En 1993, le Chef Oakes ouvre Boulevard Restaurant avec Pat Kuleto. Ce célèbre établissement a valu au Chef Oakes de nombreuses récompenses locales, nationales et internationales, nominations et récompenses; Y compris le restaurant le plus populaire de la région de la baie de San Francisco de Zagat, le prix de la Fondation James Beard pour le meilleur chef de Californie en 2001 et le restaurant exceptionnel aux États-Unis en 2012, ainsi que la Filiale des Etats-Unis en France.

 

Le chef Nancy Oakes est un pionnier de la haute cuisine américaine. Son niveau d’excellence incomparable et des plats accessibles et innovants ont permis aux clients de revenir pendant des décennies.

 

Restaurant SAISON de JOSHUA SKENES

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La signature de Joshua Skenes, c’est le feu. Il a transposé le feu de camp de son enfance dans son restaurant, Saison, à San Francisco, et travaille la cuisson à la braise. C’est le meilleur moyen pour lui d’exalter le goût des ingrédients, sa préoccupation principale.

 

IMG_6006 IMG_6008 IMG_6009Ses menus mettent en valeur les meilleurs produits qui existent, qu’il sait laisser rassir s’il le faut, à l’instar du gibier ou de certains légumes dont les saveurs seront ainsi plus concentrées. Sa cuisine est tout un savoir, tout un art qui demande surtout un temps infini ; il aime que ses hôtes en aient conscience. Mais l’atmosphère reste décontractée, rien de tel après le repas qu’un thé au sarrasin près de l’âtre flamboyant.

 

CHEF GARY DANKO

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Gary Danko est l’un des chefs les plus talentueux et les plus respectés d’Amérique. Son succès peut être attribué à ses nombreuses années d’études et de travail acharné combiné avec une capacité naturelle à créer des plats d’élégance et de profondeur qui évoquent les plaisirs simples et la chaleur de la cuisine à domicile. L’intérêt de Danko pour la cuisine a commencé dans la cuisine de sa mère dans le nord de l’État de New York, où il a regardé la Louisiane habilement équilibrer les saveurs grâce à l’utilisation judicieuse des assaisonnements simples et les ingrédients frais de la ferme. Il l’a ensuite amené dans les salles de classe de la française Madeleine Kamman, son mentor exigeant et visionnaire qui le raffiné dans les techniques, la science et l’histoire de la cuisine française, et fortifié les bases de sa carrière remarquable.

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Gary Danko est diplômé en 1977 de l’Institut Culinaire de Hyde Park, New York. Depuis ses débuts en tant que chef au Tucker Hill Inn dans le Vermont aux années suivantes en cours d’exécution des cuisines primées dans la région de la baie, y compris Beringer Vineyards et le Ritz-Carlton San Francisco, Danko s’est consacré à saisonniers, Pratique était répandue. Au restaurant Gary Danko, ces ingrédients sont encore le fondement de sa cuisine aventureuse et spirituelle et ne sont jamais éclatés. Tout en établissant des relations étroites avec le fromage artisanal, la viande et les fournisseurs de produits pour obtenir les meilleurs ingrédients possibles, Danko continue de pousser, en incorporant des traditions culinaires, des techniques, des produits et des assaisonnements du monde entier pour créer une cuisine de grande finesse et saveurs équilibrées .

 

Parmi les nombreuses réalisations de Gary Danko figurent trois prix de la Fondation James Beard, dont «Best Chef – California» et reflètent sa quête de l’excellence tout au long de sa vie.

 

ROBERT CURRY   AUBERGE DU SOLEIL

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« Ayant grandi en Californie, j’ai eu la chance d’avoir accès à une grande variété de fruits et légumes frais. Au restaurant de l’Auberge du Soleil, ces saveurs de saison se trouvent au cœur de nos menus. Et grâce à notre emplacement de choix dans la Napa Valley, qui non seulement se targue d’être l’une des plus belles régions viticoles du monde, mais foisonne également de fermes biologiques familiales avec lesquelles nous avons tissé de merveilleuses relations, nous sommes en mesure d’offrir les meilleurs produits toute l’année. »

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INTERVIEW de TED BASELER PDG de STE MICHELLE WINE ESTATES !!!

Interview, Part 2: Ted Baseler, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates
In the second part of our interview with Ted Baseler, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates’ chief executive discusses the group’s California portfolio and partner brands, as well as trends in its core Washington business.
SND: You mentioned strong premiumization trends within the Washington wine segment. What other developments are noteworthy within the category?
Baseler: We’re seeing high levels of interest in Washington-produced Cabernet. It’s becoming the varietal of Washington, although we still produce a lot of Riesling. There’s also great interest in Syrah, GSM (a red blend consisting of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre) wines and Rhône-style wines overall from Washington. We have a wine called The Pundit, which last year was in the Wine Spectator Top 100 and retails at around $25. It’s a joint venture with Michel Gassier and Philippe Cambie of the Rhône, which we launched in the spring of 2015. It’s been wildly successful and our first vintage sold out quickly. We’re really excited about the prospect for developing a broader reputation for Syrah. Another wine in the same series is a GSM blend called Tenet, which retails at $70.

SND: How did Washington’s 2016 harvest turn out?
Baseler: I recently met with Steve Warner of the Washington State Wine Commission, and he’s projecting that it’ll be a 270,000-ton harvest, which will be—by far—an all-time record for the state of Washington. And we continue to add vineyard acreage, so I think the future is very bright. We also definitely welcome in others that have come from, say, California to Washington. There’s a big enough tent for everyone.
SND: Looking at SMWE’s California brands, which are demonstrating notable growth?
Baseler: Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars has been incredibly successful. It has received outstanding scores, and we basically sell out of every vintage. The estate wines from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars—the Fay, S.L.V. and Cask 23 labels—are performing exceptionally well. They’re selling out almost upon release, and they range from about $125 to $260. It demonstrates that even at high prices, people are enthusiastic about these collector wines. Also, last April we acquired Sonoma’s Patz & Hall winery, which has top-quality Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. We’re seeing tremendous interest in Patz & Hall’s Dutton Ranch and Hyde Vineyard releases, priced from about $40 to $100.
SND: Speaking of Stag’s Leap, are you able to comment on the lawsuit filed by SMWE against Treasury Wine Estates and The Stag brand last year?
Baseler: I would just make a brief comment, and that is that we believe we’re on the right side of this issue. And the Stags Leap District Winegrowers Association agrees.
SND: What’s happening within your portfolio of partner brands?
Baseler: We’re experiencing very good growth with almost all of our partner brands, including Villa Maria from New Zealand and Italy’s Antinori, whose Tignanello ended up number-eight on the Wine Spectator Top 100 list, which we’re very proud of. Also from Italy, we released a new wine last year called Mamma Mia, which features a red blend and white blend at around $12. We think it has great potential.
SND: Any other key initiatives to mention?
Baseler: One of our most exciting 2017 initiatives is the 50th anniversary of Chateau Ste. Michelle. When you think about the wine world, it’s different in America than in Europe. Fifty years is a big deal here. In March, we’ll be launching a commemorative retro label for Chateau Ste. Michelle. It will be a special bottling of Cabernet Sauvignon with the label featuring a map of Washington and France, which we used to feature on the Chateau Ste. Michelle bottles years ago to indicate the parallel between Bordeaux and the Columbia Valleyrospect for developing a broader reputation for Syrah. Another wine in the same series is a GSM blend called Tenet, which retails at $70.

2016 in CHATEAUNEUF DU PAPE THE VINTAGE OF THE CENTURY by PHILIPPE CAMBIE

2016 in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the vintage of the century? By Philippe Cambie.

The summer has been hot and dry, with very little rain, but what was very important: hot days and especially cool nights.
The grapes were exceptionally healthy, part from some very rare case of late powdery mildew and a rather aggressive fourth generation of worms: practically no sorting in the cellar. An harvest of exceptional quality.
Reasonable good quantities and a record of anthocyanins and polyphenol on Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre.
According to the elders, the vintage reminds 1990!!! Mythical!
We are going to have colored and rich red wines, whites full of sweetness, Roussane and Clairette wines are outstanding.
For me, this is one of my best vintages ever vinified! Higher than 2015, 2012, 2010, 2007 and 2005!!! From all types of soils, it is for sure The great Grenache vintage !!!
Lots of power from La Crau, wines with a great deal of delicacy and class on the sands, rich and solar wines from the south districts !!! Nothing is missing.
A great homogeneity in quality throughout the appellation, with an altogether generous harvest. A vintage that should please the press and the Anglo-Saxon consumer.

Jancis Robinson Written by Jancis Robinson 23 Nov 2016 Rhône 2015 – rest of southern Rhône reds

GIGONDAS
These 89 wines seemed definitely less ripe than the Châteauneuf 2015s, and more astringent on the finish, as though the phenolics didn’t always ripen fully. The floral and black-cherry aromas I found in many a Châteauneuf were largely absent here. Overall I felt the appellation was rather less successful. To reduce the number of wines tasted to a manageable level, I limited the number of cuvées tasted per producer in some cases.

 

Tardieu-Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2015 Gigondas
85% Grenache (80 to over 100 years old), 10% Syrah (80 to over 100 years old), 5% Mourvèdre (80 to over 100 years old). From the Dentelles, Boussière, Garrigues and Teysonnières. Two-thirds whole bunch. Aged in one-year-old barrels.

Dark purplish crimson. This sample smelt just a little tired unfortunately. There is massive ripeness here and almost animal savour. A little saltiness. This particular sample didn’t quite hang together and seemed a tad scrawny on the end but I can quite believe this was down to the condition of the sample rather than the intrinsic worth of the wine.  14.5% 
Drink 2017-2022
£195 per case of 12 ib RRP 
15.5

Dom de Longue Toque 2015 Gigondas
60% Grenache, 40% Syrah. The Grenache is matured in mix of concrete vats and demi-muids, the Syrah in French oak for about 18 months. Cask sample.

Tasted blind. Bright crimson. Very fresh nose with lots of drive and energetic tannins. An excellent package for mid-term drinking though not one of the most long-term wines. 
Drink 2020-2027

16.5

Gabriel Meffre, La Châsse Grande Réserve 2015 Gigondas
Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre. Cask sample.

Tasted blind. Slightly dull crimson. Rather muddy, vegetal nose. Edge of sourness rather than freshness and very solid fruit that seems quite evolved. Useful for restaurateurs?  
Drink 2018-2024

16

Louis Bernard 2015 Gigondas
Grenache, Syrah. Cask sample.

Tasted blind. Bright crimson. Sweet, rich, unadorned, almost rude fruit. Very straightforward with good freshness. Super-healthy.  
Drink 2020-2028

16.5

 

Ravoire & Fils, Olivier Ravoire 2015 Gigondas
85% Grenache, 15% Syrah, destemmed and vinified separately. 20% of the final blend is aged 12 to 18 months in new barrels (225 litre for Syrah and half barrels for the Grenache), the rest is aged in stainless-steel tanks. Cask sample.

Tasted blind. Dense, velvety crimson. There is even a hint of black-cherry opulence here. Velvet texture – very worked? – but nothing overripe. A Gigondas in ‘modern’ idiom with some oak influence evident. A love or loathe wine. 14% 
Drink 2021-2028

16.5

Dom des Bosquets (Bréchet) 2015 Gigondas
70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 7% Mourvèdre, 3% Cinsault. Vinified in stainless steel. Matured for 12 months in various sized oak vessels for the Syrah, concrete tank for the Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault. After blending, the wine will mature a further six months in concrete tanks before bottling. Cask sample.

Tasted blind. Slightly grey crimson. Very ripe indeed and then some leathery tannins. So sweet! Not quite fresh enough for my taste. Falls away a little on the end. 15.6% 
Drink 2020-2026

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Dom des Bosquets (Bréchet), Le Lieu Dit 2015 Gigondas
Mostly Grenache. Vinified in stainless steel, matured in 600-litre old oak demi-muids. Cask sample.

Tasted blind. Relatively light crimson. Sweet, ripe Grenache on the nose. Light and lively. Well-judged, sprightly, entertaining wine. 16.2% 
Drink 2019-2026

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Dom des Bosquets (Bréchet), La Colline 2015 Gigondas
Grenache-dominated blend. Vinified in stainless steel. Matured in 500-litre demi-muids, first and third use. Cask sample.

Tasted blind. Blackish crimson. Full, opulent, floral notes on the nose. Racy palate with real energy. Sweet finish. The fruit almost obscures the fine tannins.  16.3% 
Drink 2020-2027

16.5+

Dom de Cabasse, Jucunditas 2015 Gigondas
80% Grenache, 20% blend of Syrah and Mourvèdre. 100% destemmed. Vinified in concrete tank, matured in oak, a mix of demi-muid and barrique. Cask sample.

Tasted blind. Pale-rimmed crimson. Meaty nose with very fine tannins. Good freshness without its being dominant. A well-balanced wine for fairly early drinking. Some heat on the end.  14.5% 
Drink 2019-2025

16.5

St-Damien, Les Souteyrades 2015 Gigondas
80% Grenache, 20% Mourvèdre. Cask sample.

Tasted blind. Dark ruby with a fading rim. Sweet, salty and floral on the nose with medium weight, fully ripe fruit. Lightly grainy tannins. Nice package for early to mid-term drinking. 15% 
Drink 2019-2025

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VACQUEYRAS

There was very exuberant fruit on palate entry in these 67 wines in general (and sometimes the distinct impression of residual sugar) with few wines showing great sophistication. And as with Gigondas 2015s, many of these Vacqueyras showed notably drying tannins (was this a lack of phenolic ripeness?) and some of the wines were marked by a strong green streak on the palate. Overall they seemed much earlier-maturing than either Gigondas or Châteauneuf.

 

Tardieu-Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2015 Vacqueyras
70% Grenache (over 60 years old), 25% Syrah (40 years old), 5% Mourvèdre (40 years old). Two-thirds whole bunch, aged in one-year-old barrels.

Blackish ruby. Sweet and silky on the nose – most alluring already. Heady. Round with very gentle tannins that make their presence felt only on the very end, along with a hint of alcoholic warmth. This really does taste of Provençal sunshine; there could even be a hint of lavender along with the sautéed plums. 14.5% 
Drink 2018-2026
£175 per case of 12 ib RRP 
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Dom de la Charbonnière 2015 Vacqueyras
60% Grenache, 40% Syrah. Aged in large oak.

Tasted blind.

 

Round and ripe with some structure. Ambitious and a little dry on the end but not excessively drying. Ambitious. 15.5% 
Drink 2019-2026

16.5+

Dom de la Charbonnière, Cuvée Spéciale 2015 Vacqueyras
All Grenache, a new cuvée made from a parcel acquired in 2014. Philippe Cambie now consults here.

Tasted blind. I seem to have been more impressed by this producer’s Vacqueyras than by their Châteauneuf. Purplish. Some interesting ripe fruit on the nose here. Ripe and well balanced. Proper full ripeness and some ripe and substantial but not drying tannins too. Serious stuff.  15.5% 
Drink 2020-2027

17

Ravoire & Fils, Olivier Ravoire 2015 Vacqueyras
80% Grenache, 20% Syrah. Destemmed. 20% spends 12-18 months in new barrels of 225 litres for the Syrah and in demi-muids for the Grenache, the rest in concrete tanks.

Tasted blind. Opulent texture and candied rose petals on the nose – but just a bit too sweet and sickly for comfort. Shame because it has so much going for it. Falls off a ledge at the end.  14% 
Drink 2017-2020

15.5

Gabriel Meffre, Laurus 2015 Vacqueyras
70% Grenache, 30% Syrah. Destemmed. A third of the blend spends 14 months in new 275-litre barrels.

Tasted blind. Blackish crimson. Light nose with a suggestion of carbonic gas. Sweet start and some raciness. Not the subtlest, deepest wine but it is appetising. No great length but should give considerable short-term pleasure. 14.5% 
Drink 2017-2021

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Gabriel Meffre, Barthélemy 2015 Vacqueyras
Grenache, Syrah.

Tasted blind. Blackish crimson. Not much nose – just a slightly industrial whiff. Sweet start and then very drying finish with rather a hollow middle.  
Drink 2018-2022

15.5

Dom de Longue Toque 2015 Vacqueyras
60% Syrah, 40% Grenache. Destemmed. Grenache spends six months in tank and Syrah in oak.

Tasted blind. Dark purple. Really quite a lot of blue in the colour here. Spicy ripe fruit. But also drying tannins on the end – just a bit pinched. 15% 
Drink 2019-2023

16

 

CAIRANNE

I tasted these immediately after the Rasteau and noted an enormous difference. The Cairanne wines were more refined and obviously from cooler climes, but were notably good.

 

Dom des Coteaux des Travers, Terra Rosea 2015 Cairanne
70% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre. Destemmed and fermented in wooden tronconic vats. Élevage in 70% concrete, 30% 228-litre one- and two-year-old barrels for 10-12 months.

Tasted blind. Mid crimson with shading. Notably spicy nose. Green-strawberry flavours. Very racy and refreshing. Cool site? No weight at all. The thirst-quenching side of southern Rhône.  14.5% 
Drink 2017-2021

16

Dom des Escaravailles, Ventabren 2015 Cairanne
70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Carignan. Élevage in concrete tanks. Tank sample.

Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Straightforward, sweet fruit without any exaggeration. Clean and workmanlike with Cairanne freshness. Very brisk indeed. Quite long and neat.  15% 
Drink 2018-2024

16+

Dom des Escaravailles, La Boutine 2015 Cairanne
Mostly Grenache. Nine months in concrete tank.

Tasted blind. Light crimson. Straightforward, fully ripe fruit, unadorned. Round, juicy and thoroughly local. Pure pleasure in the strawberry/rose-petal idiom. Masses of sweetness and transparency. Very honest. Even if not for the very long term. Real grunt and authenticity to this wine. Lovely freshness on the end after all that sweet fruit.  15% 
Drink 2018-2022

16.5

LIRAC

Good density of fruit here.

 

Maby, Nessun Dorma 2015 Lirac
50% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 25% Mourvèdre. Destemmed. 60% aged in oak (one-third new), 40% in concrete tanks for 15 months. Tank sample.

Tasted blind. Blackish crimson. Ripe, opulent nose. A little confected with some sharp drying tannins on the end. Not settled down to a comfortable whole yet but there is masses of ripe fruit anyway. Exuberant.  15% 
Drink 2018-2023

16-

Maby, Bel Canto 2015 Lirac
100% Grenache, whole bunch. Aged in demi-muids (half new) for 15 months. Tank sample.

Tasted blind. Blackish crimson. Very opulent nose and round tannins. Very drying end. A bit uncomfortably over the top. And then it all falls away on the end.  15% 
Drink 2018-2022

15.5

Maby, La Fermade 2015 Lirac
80% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah. Destemmed. In cement tanks for 15 months. Tank sample.

Tasted blind. Blackish crimson. Intense, glossy, glamorous wine with real line and punch. Very appetising with ripe but not particularly sweet fruit. Carefully guided. Very smart indeed. May be GV? 14.5% 
Drink 2018-2024

16.5

RASTEAU

I thought most of these wines showed particularly well, with the Pique Basse and Beaurenard better than many a Châteauneuf.

 

Dom des Coteaux des Travers, La Mondona 2015 Rasteau
70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Destemmed and fermented in wooden tronconic tanks. Tasted blind. Aged 10-12 months in 70% concrete and 30% 228-litre barrels of first and second use. Tank sample.

Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Intense and gorgeous on the nose though a tiny bit astringent on the finish. Good combo of ripeness and freshness but not quite a hedonistic whole. 15% 
Drink 2019-2024

16

Tardieu-Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2015 Rasteau
65% Grenache (80 years old), 25% Syrah (40 years old), 10% Mourvèdre (40 years old on limestone clay and blue clay). One-third whole bunch, aged in one-year-old barrels.

Dark ruby. Colour not quite out to the rim. Notably gamey/meaty on the nose (a Mourvèdre effect?). Sweet, roasted start and without quite the concentration of the top Côtes du Rhône bottlings. But masses of tannins on the end.  14.5% 
Drink 2018-2023
£155 per case of 12 ib RRP 
16+

Grand Nicolet, Terre des Bertrand 2015 Rasteau
70% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Carignan. Élevage in concrete tank. Tasted blind.

Dark crimson. Racy and fully evolved. Expressive, confident, no-frills fruit . Edgy and energetic. Long and relaxed. Really most impressive on the finish. But a very different style to the most ‘worked’ examples.  15% 
Drink 2018-2023

16.5

Grand Nicolet, Vieilles Vignes 2015 Rasteau
60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre. Élevage mostly in concrete with 10% of the Syrah in one- to three-year-old barriques for 12 months. Tank sample.

Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Sample rather oxidised. Thick and soupy on the palate – this has lost its mojo. Hugely impressive concentration but not enough true freshness. There is even a hint of mousiness on the end but this may just be a sample problem.  15% 
Drink 2018-2022

15.5

Grand Nicolet, Les Esqueyrons 2015 Rasteau
50% Grenache (80-year-old vines), 50% Syrah (50-year-old vines). The Syrah is aged in one-year-old barriques for 12 months. Tank sample.

Tasted blind. Blackish purple. Raw, purple fruits on the nose. Sweet and velvety. Fades a bit on the finish though. Like the Grand Nicolet Vieilles Vignes, this may be a sample problem but both wines seem a bit over the top. 15% 
Drink 2019-2023

15.5

Dom des Escaravailles, Héritage 1924 2015 Rasteau
Mostly Grenache. In concrete tanks for nine months.

Tasted blind. Dark ruby. Some damp-fur elements plus very ripe, intense fruit. Dry tannins on the end but lots of concentration and ambition. Hot end (rare for Rasteau). Fun to drink! Racy strawberry fruit. 15% 
Drink 2017-2023

16.5

Dom des Escaravailles, La Ponce 2015 Rasteau
80% Grenache, 20% Syrah. The Grenache is in concrete tank for a year and the Syrah in oak barrel for a year. Tank sample.

Tasted blind. Blackish crimson. Rather oxidised sample but with lots of suave fruit underneath. Drawing-room Rasteau rather than the rustic sort! Maybe another sample would be even more impressive… Lots of punch. I suspect I am under-scoring this wine.  15% 
Drink 2018-2025

16

CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES, PLAN DE DIEU

 

Calendal 2015 Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Plan de Dieu
70% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre. Aged in 225-litre barrels for nine to 10 months.

Tasted blind. Bright dark crimson. Sweet with oak more in evidence than the fruit. Lots of sweet juiciness and very smoothed tannins but it’s more a cellar wine than a vineyard one.  15.5% 
Drink 2018-2022

15.5

 

CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES, ROAIX

 

Dom des Escaravailles, Les Hautes Granges 2015 Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Roaix
Mostly Syrah. Nine months in oak.

Tasted blind. Dark, glossy blackish crimson. A charred nose. This wine seems to have been overworked. So much extraction that it has virtually lost its fruit in the middle. Too much emphasis on the phenolics? A rather bitter end. 15% 
Drink 2018-2021

15

 

CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES, SABLET

 

Dom de Cabasse, Les Deux Anges 2015 Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Sablet
75% Grenache, 3% Carignan, 22% Syrah. Vinified in concrete but spends some time in wood.

Tasted blind. Dark ruby with a pale rim. Warm, spicy, slightly animal nose with only medium intensity. Seems very advanced without much tannin evident. Pleasant, quite simple wine with slightly stewed fruit. 14% 
Drink 2016-2019

15

 

CÔTES DU RHÔNE-VILLAGES

 

Tardieu-Laurent, Les Becs Fins 2015 Côtes du Rhône-Villages
50% Grenache (60 years old), 40% Syrah (30 years old), 10% Cinsault (60 years old). Ten months in cement.

Dark purplish crimson. Vibrant peppery fruit on the nose and still quite tight on the finish. Clearly made to last. Drying tannins on the end at the moment. GV 14.5% 
Drink 2017-2020
£95 per case of 12 ib RRP 
16

CÔTES DU RHÔNE

Look out for the popular Guigal red Côtes du Rhône 2015 when it is released early in 2018. It is exceptional quality for a wine of which five million bottles are made and has, in the past anyway, represented outstanding value.

 

Tardieu-Laurent, Guy Louis 2015 Côtes du Rhône
60% Grenache (50 years old), 35% Syrah (40 years old), 5% Mourvèdre (30-40 years old). From parcels in Lirac, Rasteau, Beaume de Venise , Vacqueyras and Cairanne. One-third whole bunch and aged in one- and two-year-old barrels.

Very ripe, luscious nose with very well-managed tannins. I might take this for a Gigondas blind. Sweet and much more approachable than the Becs Fins bottling. GV 14.5% 
Drink 2016-2022
£130 per case of 12 ib RRP 
16.5

Tardieu-Laurent, Cuvée Spéciale 2015 Côtes du Rhône
95% Grenache, 5% others (70 years old). All whole bunch and aged in two-year-old barrels.

Spicily perfumed. More aromatic and lifted than the Guy Louis 2015. On the palate it is still pretty grainy and, with all those tannins on the end, needs further ageing but it should age very gracefully. Definitely many cuts above the appellation average. Ambitious. This will be released only in autumn 2017 and Corneys are selling it specifically in magnums. 
Drink 2018-2024
£180 per case of 6 magnums ib Corney & Barrow 
16.5

Le Clos du Caillou, Bouquet des Garrigues 2015 Côtes du Rhône
65% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre, 10% Carignan. Tank sample.

Light garnet. Sweet, light, sweet and simple. A tad pinched on the end.  
Drink 2017-2020
£110 per case of 12 ib H2Vin 
15.5

Le Clos du Caillou, Les Quartz 2015 Côtes du Rhône
85% Grenache, 15% Syrah. Tank sample.

Sample a little tired on the nose but it’s extremely luscious on the palate. Sweet, salty and strawberry. May be a bit much for some palates but there is no shortage of personality. 
Drink 2018-2023
£159 per case of 12 ib H2Vin 
17-

Le Clos du Caillou, Réserve 2015 Côtes du Rhône
85% Grenache, 15% Syrah. Tank sample.

Light, fresh and much tighter than the Quartz Côtes du Rhône. Broad and polished with rather a severe finish.  
Drink 2019-2025
£205 per case of 12 ib H2Vin 
16

BANDOL

 

Tardieu-Laurent 2015 Bandol
95% Mourvèdre (over 50 years old), 5% Grenache (over 50 years old). Clay-limestone soils on Le Castellet. One-year-old barrels.

Purplish crimson. Not as expressive on the nose as the southern Rhône wines. It’s all tarry and buried… Very sweet start and then it really dries out the inside of the mouth. Quite a different build! It could do with a little more juice. Not very expressive on the palate either at this stage. 14% 
Drink 2020-2026
£185 per case of 12 ib RRP

Jancis Robinson 25 Nov 2016 Rhône 2015 – whites north and south

 

            



Tardieu-Laurent 2015 Condrieu100% Viognier (45 years old, from parcels in Paton, Chanson and Rocharde and Vernon). New and one-year-old barrels.

Deep straw colour. At the moment this is a bit dumb on the nose. There is good weight on the palate but it doesn’t quite have the tension and conviction of the 2014. It’s a little unfocused at present. 14% 
Drink 2016-2017£295 per case of 12 ib RRP16

Tardieu-Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2015 St-Péray50% Marsanne (50-100 years old), 50% Roussanne (over 40 years old). New and one-year-old barrels.

Deep straw. Really tangy on the nose – great vivacity and raciness but with a honeysuckle undertow (from the Marsanne presumably) and just a hint of struck match. Utterly satisfying already. Depth and refreshment. I’m not surprised it is already sold out chez Corney & Barrow. Too rich to sip without food though. GV 14% 
Drink 2016-2018£175 per case of 12 ib RRP – SOLD OUT17

 

Tardieu-Laurent 2015 Hermitage80% Marsanne (over 50 years old), 20% Roussanne (over 40 years old). New and one-year-old barrels.

Deep straw colour. Ethereal and deceptively light on the nose but with lots buried underneath. Great weight and intensity with some lemon cough drops and lots of blossom but no heaviness. Apparently quite sweet, but with a most engaging quinine twist. Racy and refined plus massive density. Should make excellent old bones. Real grip and conviction. 14% 
Drink 2020-2030£325 per case of 12 ib RRP18

Chêne Bleu Viognier 2015 IGP VaucluseBottled two weeks ago. Lovely round nose with arresting blossomy varietal character. Quite big and round and it doesn’t have the savour of a great Condrieu but it’s way better than most varietal Viognier.  
Drink 2017-2018

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Tardieu-Laurent, Les Becs Fins 2015 Côtes du Rhône35% Grenache Blanc (40 years old), 35% Viognier (20 years), 20% Roussanne (20 years), 10% Clairette (40 years). Six months in cement.

Pale greenish straw. A bright, sweetish cocktail on the nose. Racy and rich on the palate with all sorts of gorse smells. Medium weight and a satisfying mouthful for early drinking.  13.5% 
Drink 2016-2017£120 per case of 12 ib RRP15.5

Tardieu-Laurent, Guy Louis 2015 Côtes du Rhône35% Marsanne (60 years old), 30% Grenache Blanc (70 years old), 20% Roussanne (40 years old), 10% Viognier (40 years old), 5% Clairette (40 years old). Organic. Aged in a mix of barrels.

Deep straw colour. Most appealing edge and drive to the nose of this which has masses of energy on the nose and the weight of the Grenache and Marsanne on the palate. Already open and drinkable.  14% 
Drink 2016-2018£135 per case of 12 ib RRP16

Tardieu-Laurent, Vieilles Vignes 2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape50% Grenache Blanc (60 years old), 35% Roussanne (30 years old), 10% Clairette (40 years old), 5% Bourboulenc (40 years old). New and one-year-old barrels.

Pale straw. Light honey nose. Quite weighty and well balanced but it lacks a real spark for me. Just a bit chewy and grainy on the end and seems a tad heavy. That’s Châteauneuf Blanc! Though there is some potential for further development.  14% 
Drink 2016-2019£275 per case of 12 ib RRP16

ROSÉ

 

Chêne Bleu, Rosé 2015 IGP VauclusePale tomato pink. Straightforward herby scents and very round fruit with real savour. Quite long. 
Drink 2016-2017£60 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks16

Tardieu-Laurent, Vieilles Vignes Rosé 2015 Tavel60% Grenache, 35% Cinsault, 5% Syrah. All between 40 and 50 years old. Rounded pebbles and sandy soils in Vallongue. Six months in concrete.

Very pale tomato red but not the strong orange you can find in many a Tavel. Clean, even a tad neutral on the nose. But certainly not hot or heavy. Reasonably energetic but I’m struggling to find any superiority over many other rosés. It’s technically fine but just very slightly sticky and not quite at its peak. 14% 
Drink 2016-2017£135 per case of 12 ib RRP15.5

 

 

 

 

 

 

DOMAINE DU BRAMADOU by ANDRE DEVALD in PENGE&PRIVATOKONOMI meilleur vin de noel !!!!!!

ANDRE  DEVALD écrit dans la revue Penge & Privatøkonomi, . La cuvée Serre Rouge 2014 du DOMAINE DE BRAMADOU  a gagné le titre comme meilleur vin pour le repas de noël danois. En plus , le panel de dégustateurs a jugé (à l’aveugle) son valeur à plus que le double que le prix de vente. Autrement dit, une bouteille très réussis avec un rapport qualité-prix imbattable.

2016-11-julevine_page_1

2015 : The vintages in « 5″ that often bring luck.

- The vintages in « 5″ that often bring luck.
- 1985, 1995, 2005 and 2015 – are carriers of successes in the Rhone Valley,
-. It must be said that 2015 has Trump argue, with almost optimal climatic conditions for each season! Thus, the winter is rainy, allowing the vines to build good water reserves. the year was the warmest and sunniest throughout our territory since the beginning of meteorological statistics. Sunniest so that 1947 or 1921. Spring is relatively late with 3 weeks late compared to 2014. But the good weather sets in gradually and flowering takes place in excellent conditions: the output of grapes is simply exceptional. Then the summer comes quickly, the months of June, July and August are extremely hot. one can not speak of heat, because the nights are cool. The temperature ranges are very high, which promotes the presence of tannins and color. No disease pressure, the vineyard and the winemaker breathe freely. Everything is in good shape before starting the harvest!img_7266
- The Syrah are exceptional in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but the Grenache and Mourvèdre gave the feeling of being blocked by the heat wave. They were released after the September 22-23, in the final great wines with great elegance, both on the sands on clays, a beautiful millesime that gives pleasure.img_7332